Help me fix my car
 

I'm no mechanic, but there seems to be something wrong with my car:
It won't start...

Ok, here's the thing. I just bought it a couple months ago, it's an 03' Civic (auto) and has been running fine until today.
I crank her off like normal and she starts up and runs for a good 4 seconds and stalls out.
Tried cranking her off again, but this time it doesn't turn over.
Tried waiting then cranking and hitting the gas, no dice.
Scratched head.
Drank beer.

It's not the battery, just changed it 2 weeks ago.
My first suspicion is that maybe some trash got caught up in the fuel pump or something.
My second thought is that maybe my spark plugs are gunked up?
Apart from that, I really don't know. I have a Chilton's for my car, but I really don't know where the issue lies.

Anyone got any clues?

Edit:
It makes a normal cranking sound, just doesn't fully turn over.

Might be the alternator, Im no mechanic either, but have done alot of DYI when problems like yours arose. The alternator charges the battery when the car is running, if the alternator, or belt is not working properly the batt will get drained. I just replaced the alt in my gf car last month and it would start to turn over, but not finish.

Also, my uncle bought a van real cheap when I was younger and it was the same problem, we rebuilt the whole fuel injection but still could only get it to run with starter fluid. It ended up being a fuse, so check all your fuses visually or even with a fuse checker if ya got one, they have cheap ones too if you want to pick one up. Thats all I got for ya. What I like to do is go to auto zone or disc auto parts and read the manuals they have there.

I'd start with the fuel filter, clearly you have a supply problem

You might not have or have to much battery because when you start your car a whole bunch of eletric signals get started goign at the same time.
Heres soem tips mane!

1.Test you eletrical system voltage: The best way to test for electrical system voltage is to use a voltage meter basically a volt meter. I take it you know how to do this so the volts should be anywhere between 12.4 to 12.6.

2. Starter Voltage/Amperage Draw Test: Turn on your head lights and look at them. turn the ignition key if the headlights stay bright the circuit is not connected therefore no voltage drop.If headlights dim wayyyyyy down this means your car does not have enoughe battery power, and if you got a new battery this shoudl not be a problem.

The next part is a little more difficult so im going to consult a website on this and use pictures.

3. Check Neutral Safety Switch/Clutch Safety Switch: . A neutral or clutch safety switch is used to disengage the electrical circuit from the ignition key to the starter motor as a safety device. Automatic transmission vehicle gear selector needs to be either in park or neutral before the engine will crank (Make sure the parking brake is activated). If the gear selector is in any of the other gear sections the engine will not crank over. A standard transmission vehicle the clutch pedal needs to be fully depressed before the engine will crank over. To test this circuit an automotive test light is needed. Attach one end of the test light to engine ground and the other end to the starter trigger terminal of the starter solenoid (small wire). The test light should illuminate when the ignition switch is activated (Crank engine over). If the test light illuminates the starter motor/solenoid has failed and needs to be replaced. If the test light does not illuminate suspect a neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch. A wiring diagram is needed to trace power from the ignition switch through the safety switch and down to the starter solenoid. Replace failed components as needed and recheck system.
http://www.2carpros.com/first_things...r_solinode.jpg


4. Check your anti theft system: Alot of new cars (2000 and up) have an anti theft system that will not allow the starter to operate so check that out.

5. Look for internal/external engine damage. Look for "Shiny" oil,chips,wear,ect.ect.

This is all just troubleshooting but i would catch it before you screw up a tranny or something. That can cost big bucks.


But before any of these needs to be done. See if your check engine light is on.

It's a fuel problem not a starting problem

The entire purpose of a battery is to simply engage the starter: His car starts

I know but it is'nt cranking over the second time which could be starter,transmission,fuel line could be anything don't rule anything out yet that's how stuff gets ****ered up

He said it was cranking, if your battery or starter is gone they either click or do nothing

Take my word for it, it's a fuel problem

For the sake of 20 bucks start with the fuel filter

Yeah but it cranks and then dose'nt hey what the hell may just be a lose wire or something.

No

It's probably not going to be the fule line since it cranks the first time. It's going in a pattern. It has to be eletrical.

Read this again, all electrical components work

I make a pretty decent living diagnosing this stuff

Im 16 years old and know my fair share also =] I know more about motorcycles...I grew up around those.

I'm 34 and been in the biz 15 years

Well im an up-and-comer? Atleast I know this s*it I had to teach my friend how to change his oil. >.<

Wait you may be right. He may have a bad fuel line or have to just change a filter.

How Do I Know if I have a Bad Fuel Pump?

My questions for you:


Do you have a CEL (check engine light)?

When you turn the key in the ignition to the point right before the starter kicks in, do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds? (low hum coming from under the back seat)

One of the things that 5th generation Civics are famous for is the main relay failing. The solder points on the relay board dry out and crack. Sometimes the spark will jump that crack and run. Other times, you get no power to the fuel pump and the car dies or won't start. If this is your problem, you can repair this yourself! All you need is a soldering iron.


If it did not come on.

When you turn put the key in the ignition, turn, and the lights come on, does the CEL come on for two seconds then turn off?

If so, that means it works. If not, the bulb is disconnected or burned out and you could have CEL codes to retrieve that will tell you the source of your problems!

uh-huh

So yeah it would be easier if he was on to ask questions.

Why don't you trust a man twice as old as you who's been doing this as a living for as long as you've been alive? Do you honestly expect to know more then him at 16?

How about you don't come in on a conversation with out knowing a damn thign that was said? We were simply disscussing what could be wrong and what could'nt be. And just becasue he is older dose'nt mean he dont make mistakes.

I know exactly what was said, I read the thread. He seems to know exactly what's wrong, and you keep disputing him even though it's been his job for as long as you've been alive. You don't think there's a good chance he knows more then you and is probably right?

over looked this post?

No I saw that post, but even after that you posted a bunch of questions regarding electric problems, even though he said it's not an electrical problem, no?

Obviously you don't read all the way through. When workign on cars you don't rule out ANYTHING until you do the trouble shooting. Therefore i posted some simple questions so we could rule out eletrical.

I did read all the way through, I've read every post; it's not a long thread or anything.

I don't really want to argue, my only point was that you shouldn't dispute him so heavily when he's been doing this as his job for quite some time; he probably knows what he's talking about, especially in comparison to a high school student.

Well obviously I also know what im talking about so just chill...

I'm not getting excited, I'm quite calm. You were fighting with a 15 year vet about how you were probably right, and he's saying no; what should make me assume you know what you're talking about better then him?

Cory is right about not ruling anything out so this is what I reccomend:

1) remove gas cap

2) replace Civic with brand new Civic

3) replace gas cap

In doing this you have ruled out everything but the gas cap

Yeah, this is what I'd do

Ill bet your 20 that the gas cap is the problem. All the fuel is leaking out.

Haha thanks for the replies guys. Sorry I wasn't around to respond.

Ok, here's what I've done so far:

-checked fuel pump. It's operating and sending fuel through the filter and other stuff and sending fuel through the line.
-traced the fuel line all the way up to the engine and pulled the hose. Fuel comes out when I switch the car on.
-Checked to make sure the injectors are getting voltage and pulsing when I crank off. They do.

So I'm getting fuel all the way up to the injectors.
I think there may be ignition problems, but I can't figure out what. It can't be that all the spark plugs just up and broke all at the same time.

btw, none of my idiot lights stay on past the normal light up procedure when cranking off. The only one that remains on is the battery icon, obviously, since I'm using the battery to crank off.

Ok...
I just pulled the fuel rail and injectors out. Verified that there is fuel in the rail, and now I'm going to check to see if the injectors fire by hooking a 12 volt battery to one of the injectors and giving it a pulse.
If gas squirts out, then I think I can rule out fuel system problems.
Which will probably lead me to suspect air or pressure problems.

I hope I don't catch anything on fire.

Wow...

So I checked the fuel pressure at the pump, was a little lower than 60psi but that's not a problem.
Running out of options, I just decided to bleed the tank and refuel.

I crank her off and voila. She runs.
All that crap and I still don't know what the real problem was, but it's kinda like restarting a computer. It just fucking works sometimes.

I guess I had some crap gas or maybe some gunk was caught up somewhere. Who knows.
It's fixed now though.
Thanks for helping out, you guys.

Sounds like the gas cap was the problem.

LOLs.