Printed on thick stock from OfficeMax, then glued on with spray adhesive. Hence the need for the resin coating to smooth out the heavy edges on the stock paper. Right now it has about 6 coats of polyurethane spray coating applied, so it has a bit of a protective shell to it.

*casters

I am well aware of this, thank you very much. I just liked the look and they're fairly sturdy. They're also removable so i can replace them if needed.

Yes, perfect. Thank you Guybrush and Plankton.

Yeah I meant warped when I said swollen :o::laughing:

Plankton, how did you fix the edges on your furniture? Did you sand them down and use filler to straighten any rough edges out?

I’m excited to decorate these. I’ll make sure I get before and afters :)

Not much you can do with warping other than adding moisture to the warped wood and applying pressure to undo the warp, but that all depends on a few other factors too. I've only seen basic things being brought back to square and it's touchy, so complex pieces where you have to worry about joints/dovetails/rabbits and things of that nature require some experience.

For dings and dents, yes wood putty and some sanding. I had a huge section of wood break off on the middle bottom board, so the JB Weld stuff worked well for that, but for smaller marks I'd go with something like Elmers Wood Putty, which has more of a drywall mud consistency. Apply with a trowel, let it dry fully, then sand. Some types of wood putty require a coat of primer so the paint doesn't soak into the new material, but applying a good coat of primer to the entire unit and then some light sanding with high grit paper will ensure an even and smooth coating when you finish it with paint. Also, with the paint, you'll want to let it sit for at least 24 hrs between coats otherwise you may get some bubbling, and don't mix acrylic and latex. Use one or the other for all primer, base, and clear coats on the same piece. Latex is water based and acrylic is chemical based.

So, some basic steps for reference:

1. Clean unit/section, etc.
2. Apply wood putty to the nicks and dents
3. Let dry fully
4. Sand wood putty sections (as well as entire unit/section, etc.) with med grit to fine grit paper (step it down in 3 applications 100 - 150 - 220)
5. Wipe down unit, removing dust from sanding
6. Apply primer to entire unit/section, etc.
7. Let dry fully for 24 hrs
8. Sand entire unit/section, etc. once again with fine grit paper (220)
9. Wipe down unit again, removing the dust from sanding
10. Apply first coat of paint and wait 24 hrs
11. Apply second coat of paint and wait another 24 hrs
12. Apply finishing clear coat/final coat of paint and wait at least 2 weeks to properly cure before use

If you don't let the paint cure fully, it's more prone to scratching and flaws when in use. Paint can still be a bit malleable even after a few days.

Looking forward to seeing the finished piece!

Nice, Plankton! :) Even more solid advice and that's a really cool table.

I feel like we've brought the dad spirit to this thread. Creative fatherly juices are flowing.

Thanks GB!

I started out building with my Grandfather in his wood shop when I was a kid, and my Dad was always good with mechanical and auto repair/paint, so I had some good teachers. Passing the knowledge along is the logical next step, and it's a pleasure to be able to do so again. My daughter has already surpassed the teacher, but the Dad-liness in me still thrives, so I post what I can.

Another fine thread created by wwwp

Congratulations you created the mansplaining thread.

It did feel that way when I was writing. I was just wondering how long it was gonna take for you to mention it.

It’s not mansplaining when you’re being asked to give your expertise

There is a definitive line, yes. Just trying to make dickhead feel bad about his decision to come in here and inject his brand of fearing intimacy.