Going full redneck, picked up my first banjo Saturday morning, Gold Tone CC-100R.
I'm gonna be slammin' it for at least a couple of hours a day, aiming for damn good results by the weekend. Sounds great and matches my Tele. Feels so strange to play, much different than a guitar. The hardest part to grasp so far is how your picking hand fingers don't line up with your fretting hand fingers due to the extra string that only spans half the neck. http://i.imgur.com/KWitxH7.jpg?1 |
Gold Tone is a great banjo brand, I was looking really hard at one before I settled on my Gretsch (although I've got my eyes on a Deering). I'd highly recommend the Hal Leonard Banjo Method books. I would not try taking on the Earl Scruggs book right away as it's pretty much for intermediate/ advanced players and can be a little discouraging. I ended up just putting a t-shirt in the pot to mute the sound and just sat and practiced open G rolls while watching TV and it really helped me with getting use to the style. I would also recommend learning with finger picks as it gives you a lot of volume, but try to find or order online national medium thumb picks. Most stores only carry Dunlop thumb picks and they are WAY too big and a little clumsy.
Other than that, have fun! Banjo is a great instrument. |
Thanks for the advice, the diversity of styles and approaches in the banjo world is a bit intimidating but I don't suspect getting a feel for the instrument will be all that difficult. I've been playing guitar for ~10 years so I'm hoping a lot of that experience will transfer over smoothly. I'm not concerned about having to teach my fretting hand any new tricks, I'm anticipating that most of the learning curve will involve my picking hand. You're certainly right about passively practicing open G rolls, helps a lot, as did passive picking practice with guitar back in the day.
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I almost got a banjo until the guitar, I was actually leaning towards one. But I didn't feel like waiting for a six string to be delivered and as a beginner string player I figured guitar is a good place to start.
Enjoy what appears to be a 5 string and good luck with the learning! Its weird how so many big metal fans also gravitate towards folk and western ****... |
So after getting my Telecaster back I really found that my Epiphone SG was lacking in tone. I was still within the 30 days return policy and was going to return it and pay a little extra for a used Gibson SGJ but the store I was going to order it from sold it at pretty much the same time I was hoping to buy it. Anyways I decided to use the returned funds to buy an Ltd EC-401VF with DiMarzio PAF 36th Anniversary pickups.
http://www.rhapsody.fr/images/produi...C401VF-TSB.jpg All things considered I think things worked out well in the end. |
Welp, I have a cheapo Teisco ET-210n that I picked up at a Pawn Shop for $40. I love the feel, tone and everything about it.
Only problem is my high e strings keep breaking. It's always the same. They'll be on for a few days, and I'll be playing (not even on the high e) and then bam, the high e string breaks at the ball end. (literally the ball snaps off, the rest of the string is completely intact) I have no idea what the problem is. I want to say it's my cheapness in buying really cheap Fender strings, but I have them on all my electric guitars and none of them experience this problem, even if I bend the high e string as far as it will go. Something probably needs filed down? I'm just so confused here. If anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. (p.s. wasn't sure if this warranted a new thread or not so I just posted it here to be safe.) |
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This is just a guess, but I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with imperfections of the bridge or nut, but how the tension is distributed across all of the strings, pretty much a design flaw. edit: I have noticed that some of my various e-strings I've bought have lasted longer than others (unsoldered), one that lasted until I changed the strings was some .11 gauge string I bought in bulk, wish I remembered the brand or where I stuck the rest of them. |
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I will definitely try the soldering thing out, thanks! I was also thinking it may have something to do with the tuning pegs, as the tuners for the B and E strings are both very stiff. My theory was the string isn't able to go out of tune due to the pegs being so stiff, and instead is just snapping from the tension. Going to try to lube them up as well. Might not be the problem, but I should really fix it regardless. Also, if you happen to remember the brand, please PM me or something, it'd be very useful to know. |
I never dug analog delay that much, I preferred the cleanness and loop effect of digital.
Then I got a second analog pedal and my entire paradigm has shifted. |
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https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...45&pnref=story
If y'all want to see me dick around in an instrument and talk like a ***got. |
So, I had quite the predicament.
I love my new amp (Mustang IV V.2) for all it has, except it's reverb. Surf rock is one of my favorite genres, and imo both spring reverbs built in just aren't springy enough for me. The reverb on my old cheapo starter amp (Crate GX15-R) is insanely springy and just amazing imo. It got to the point where I played my crate more than my mustang. I overlooked the obvious and didn't think to plug my old amp through my new one and use it as a pseudo-reverb tank/unit. Oh my god this is amazing. Literal reverb heaven. P.S. Quote:
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http://www.soundhouse.co.jp/images/s..._eh7815d_2.jpg |
As long as it's analog.......
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never even considered digital.
Ok, maybe I fantasized about it once; but that was my experimental college years. |
You can make ****ing awesome drones with digital delay that you can't get with analog so why don't you both just shutty.
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I use both actually.
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Now that's the way to go.
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Truth. |
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http://www.coveramp.com/uploads/AmpR...dall-rx412.jpg Not the most advanced half stack but for just shy of $350 it'll do the job. The only bad thing about the head is that the gain knob for the rhythm channel is missing so I have to twist it with pliers. The head is a Peavey Supreme XL and the cab is a Randall RX412. I would like a 6505 at some point, but until I find myself with a spare $1200 this will have to do. |
Considering buying Lollar 52 T Series neck and bridge pickups for my Squier Classic Vibe Tele (same as shown here) with some birthday gift money. I think they sound fantastic, especially the bridge - although some commenters think the great tone is coming from that Lab L7 amp.
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I gigged with a Lab Series L5 many moons ago. Killer amps. Ty Tabor of King's X used one for years. BB King too. |
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Your post made me wonder how much difference in sound the Lollar 52 T Series neck and bridge pickups make compared to the guitar's out-of-the-box pickups. I tried finding videos that might demonstrate this. Here's the closest I could find: a video comparing American Standard Pickups with Lollar 52-Ts on a home-made pine Tele. With all the different setting options that the man used (below), it was hard to tell much difference between the pickups, but perhaps the Lollars sounded more mellow? It seems to me that the tone is affected more by the settings used than the pickups. (He should have played the same songs using the different pickups, and he should have used the exact same settings!) I guess I'm wondering if the tone difference is worth the $220 cost of Lollar 52-T neck and bridge pickups (according to the Lollar website): Telecaster Pickups Tele Pickups |
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Erica and Chula, thanks for your advice (and for posting the video, Erica). I think I was overexcited about the tone that guy was getting out of his Squier CV Tele with the '52 T Lollars and Lab L7 amp (Chula, very cool you that you used the Lab L5. Those amps are legendary, it seems - good enough that B.B. King grabbed five of them). As you stated, Erica, the '52 T Lollars seem warmer, taking a bit of the biting edge off the Tele sound - and that's exactly what I like about them. My Squier CV Tele has Alnico III pickups, and now I've learned that Alnico IIIs were used on '50s Teles. So it doesn't seem worthwhile to make the change. |
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Depending on the model Fender's will come with either 500K or 250K pots. If you have 5ooK changing it to 250K with definitely smooth out the tone. |
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Never handled a soldering in my life but handy with a blowtorch on meringues and creme brulees. :) |
Hello Group. I'm new to the site and needed to ask a few technical questions
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Hello everyone.
I am extremely new (even noob is too good! so, please be kind.LOL) to the audio world and need a little help. I have some equipment that I would like help in connecting. If I do it on my own, I will blow something up! Even the simple terms like "power amp in" on the front of a powered mixer has me scratching my head. So with that said, Here is what I would like help with. I am part of a 3 piece band ( 2 guitars and a vocalist) We have the bass and drums on a backing track played through a laptop computer. We are miking the two small guitar amps with instrument mics (SM57's) and the 3 people are singing through vocal mics (SM 58's). I have tried numorous ways of hooking up the following equipment but I can't seem to get it right. As I said, If I keep plugging and unplugging lines to different places to see what works....I will damage something. I have a lot of patch cords, mic cords XLR, Speaker and guitar cords. I would like to get your opinion on the best way to set up the following equipment for us to play live in a small to medium size bar/nightclub. Here is what we have....and where I thought each piece could be utilized. 1 x Peavey XR 8600D Powered mixer. It has 2 amps, main/main and main/mon amps 4 ohms (according to what I can get from the manual). (2 guitar amp mics and 2 vocal mics could be used on this one) 1 x Behringer INuke NU1000 power amp with crossover switch for full range/mono and bridge. 2 ohms (Backing track amp?) 1 x Behringer Eurorack UB2222FX passive mixer desk. 1 x Harbinger HA 120 power amp with 2 x 12" passive speakers 8ohm (I thought the lead singer could use this one) 2 x Seismic Audio speaker cabinets with 2 15" speakers and small tweeter/horns 4 ohm at 700 watts rms (main FOH speakers?) 2 x Harbinger 12" 600 watt powered speaker/monitors (for the two guitar players) 2 x 75 watt rms passive Kustom wedges 8 ohms (lead singer monitors) 1 x 400 watt (i think) Sonic passive subwoofer with an 18" speaker and ported slots on the bottom. Don't know the ohms. Any connection set up that doesn't blow up and amp or speaker will work for me. You guys are the experts here. I would be in your debt if you could lend me a suggestion or two. I could take pics of the equipment if it would help in any way or add a link to the manuals too. Again, thanks in advance for any help. |
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Was messin' aboot in the guitar shop a few weeks ago and my buddy insisted I try out a Larrivee acoustic. Instantly fell in love, and I've never been much of an acoustic guy, this is the first acoustic I've ever felt comfortable playing, and the tone was very full. I've forgotten which model it was but it retailed for $1700. Has been itching away at the back of my mind since and I'm at the point where I've started browsing Craigslist for lightly used Larrivees. Found a D-03 (sitka spruce top, mahogany sides / back) in great condition nearby for $750, out here they retail for $1500. Stopping at the guitar shop on the way home from work today to test run a brand new one before I set up a time to try out the used one.
Larivee D-03 - Craigslist Posting http://i.imgur.com/LvnEty0.png?1 Anybody here have experience with Larrivee acoustics? From what I've seen online thus far the fans are very devoted and outspoken regarding Larrivee's tone and build quality. I'm pretty excited and will probably scoop it on impulse before the week is over, so if there are any naysayers please stop me quickly. |
Larrivee's are top notch for sure.
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